New Zealand First Impression
In February, we traveled to New Zealand for the first time. This mesmerizing country is captivating and feels so different from California. Our desire to visit was inspired by an episode of "Conan O'Brien Must Go," where Conan's amusing interactions with the locals made us fall in love with New Zealand and its people. We wanted to experience it ourselves.
Karl and I are laid-back travelers. Our itinerary isn’t designed for those who want to visit many cities or tourist attractions in one trip. During our short two-week visit, we stayed in Auckland, Taupō, and Piha, allocating 3 to 4 days in each city. As a result, we only explored about a quarter of the country, leaving the entire South Island unexplored, which is perfectly fine with us. We prefer to travel at our own pace, visit a few well-known spots for selfies with other tourists, and set aside plenty of time to wander through local parks and lesser-known hiking trails.
Some days, we simply wake up at the Airbnb, sit in the hammock, enjoy a cup of coffee, and read. That’s our unapologetic travel style: slow and easygoing.
I am gradually working on several essays to highlight our trip to New Zealand. There isn’t much of an introduction about the food at the beginning, but don’t you worry, I will not betray my food mission.
Chapter 1
Declare Those Hiking Shoes!
Nature resources worth protecting
The flight to Auckland was long and exhausting. Before traveling, we had to fill out a lengthy questionnaire about what we would bring into the country. It turns out that our hiking shoes were considered a potential biohazard. It's important to be honest and declare all items, as well as respect the rule that requires them to be thoroughly cleaned before entering the country. The wait at customs was quite lengthy, with officers randomly checking travelers.
After such a long flight, we felt tired and irritable. Although the wait at customs was unpleasant, I appreciate how New Zealand diligently protects its native and natural resources. A little hassle at the airport is completely manageable.
Chapter 2
Chinese Noodles, Kiwi Welcome
The downtown waterfront after dark — a ten-minute stroll from our door
1 / 3We stayed in downtown Auckland, which felt exceptionally clean and safe. I was particularly surprised by the diversity of the food scene. Please don’t judge, but our first meal after a long flight was Tan Tan Noodles from a Chinese noodle shop, and it was absolutely delicious! The funny part was that, even in the middle of the afternoon, the restaurant was packed with several other travelers from the same Air Canada flight that brought us here. We ended up “sniffing” each other out, and it felt both amusing and coincidental to see all these Canadians gathered in a small Chinese restaurant for our first meal in New Zealand.
I was the only Chinese-Canadian in the group, so this food is especially close to my heart. Seeing the other Canadian travelers happily slurp down bowls of noodles after a 16-hour flight and a long wait at customs made me smile. As a foodie, it always makes me happy to see people from different backgrounds embrace Chinese cuisine. At that moment, I felt an unexpected connection with Auckland. A city with a warm bowl of Chinese noodles as my first meal? That totally checks my boxes.
Aside from the food, downtown Auckland is very walkable. It only took us about 10–15 minutes to reach a wharf bustling with restaurants and bars. At sunset, the waterfront became especially beautiful, with restaurants lighting up the shore and the Sky Tower rising in the background. On the opposite side was an enclosed sea pool built into the waterfront, where children splashed and laughed while families relaxed by the water.
With such a wonderful first impression, we were excited to explore more of Auckland over the next couple of days.
P.S. We were so tired after the long flight that we totally forgot to take a photo of that bowl of noodles. Me failing as the foodie here. Instead, attached a photo of malatang we had in downtown Auckland a couple of days later—fragrant, spicy, numbing, and every bit as comforting.
Chapter 3
The Māori Experience
The Auckland War Memorial Museum — the Māori Cultural Experience waits inside, up all those steps
1 / 3If you're visiting Auckland, I can't recommend enough that you carve out some time to explore the Auckland Museum! It's a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of New Zealand’s history. But the highlight of your visit should definitely be the Māori Cultural Experience. This captivating hour, led by the warm and welcoming Māori people, offers a deep dive into their vibrant culture and heritage.
To create a respectful and intimate atmosphere, visitors are encouraged to put away their phones and leave the first two rows of seating empty in honor of ancestors, not just Māori ancestors but the guests’ too. This kind gesture brought tears to my eyes. I saw my Kunming grandparents sitting in the first two rows along with the others, nodding and smiling back at me. I am not religious or spiritual, but at that very moment, I am Māori, and I am grateful to them for inviting my grandparents here. The rest of the performance is in the form of storytelling. I felt a profound connection to the stories shared, experiencing both the joy of welcoming rituals and the poignant moments of history, which brought me to tears once more.
If you wonder if there’s the famous haka dance, yes, there was that! I think it’s much better than a BTS concert (no offense, BTS fans.) The audience was taught to flutter their hands, known as “wiri”. This quivering of the hands and fingers represents the flowing of wairua (spirit or life force) through the body. In doing so, the entire room was channeling energy to one another. What a beautiful concept that should continue to thrive in our lives.
At the beginning of the show, one of the presenters stated, "You’re about to experience AI — not Artificial Intelligence, but Ancestral Intelligence." Simply…speechless. Don't we all need more of this ancestral intelligence in today’s world?
Chapter 4
Traffic Ticket or a Pronunciation Lesson from the Highway Patrol?
The ticket was thirty-five dollars. The pronunciation lesson was complimentary.
Before we took a rental car for our upcoming trips, the kind Uber driver warned us to stay within the speed limit. Ironically, a significant source of revenue for the country comes from speeding tickets, primarily issued to tourists who may be unaware of local traffic laws or who get caught up in their usual driving habits.
It's also important to note that, like many Commonwealth countries, New Zealand drives on the opposite side of the road. If you're coming from North America, it's a good idea to watch YouTube tutorials to review traffic rules and learn mental tricks to help you adjust to driving on the left side.
We began our journey from Auckland to Lake Taupō. At first, Karl was quite cautious since it was his first time driving on the opposite side of the road. However, we soon got a little carried away. Before we knew it, a highway patrol officer was following us and signaling for us to pull over. We sighed and whispered as if the patrol could hear us: Oh, short! The Uber driver’s face flashed in my mind; he smirked and said, “Told you!”
The patrol officer checked Karl’s license and issued him a ticket. Don’t be alarmed; the ticket was quite reasonable. The speed limit was 90 km/h, and we were going just over it by about 7 km/h. The fine amounted to roughly $35 NZD. We offered to pay on the spot, but the officer explained that they would mail the ticket to our home in California, almost like a little souvenir from the trip. Well, if that’s the way they prefer to handle it, then so be it.
Then, the officer asked where we were heading. We blurted out, “Lake tauuu-pohhhh?” The officer shook his head in disapproval, as if we had disappointed him. “No, you said it wrong! Repeat after me: tauuu-poooor.”
Like two little kids in grade school, we echoed after him, "taaah-poooh.”
He shook his head in disapproval again. I thought, oh no, he’s going to throw us in a New Zealand jail if we don’t get this right. Concentrate, Karl and Kathryn! “Repeat again,” he instructed: “tauuu—— and—— poooor.”
We made our best effort, and it seems we passed this time, or he simply gave up on these two stupid foreigners who can’t speak proper English. The officer nodded, wished us a good trip, and let us go.
With a sigh of relief, we both smiled, realizing that our traffic ticket episode had turned into a wholesome and memorable experience. After that slightly nerve-wracking incident in a foreign country, we were on our way to Lake Taupō, cautiously and paranoidly driving at or below the speed limit.
Chapter 5
A Country Born on Volcanoes
New Zealand's geography is rugged. Like Hawaii, it is a country formed by volcanic activity and continues to evolve due to ongoing tectonic instability.
Chapter 5.1
Lake Taupō
First stop, the #LOVETAUPŌ sign on the waterfront — and yes, we could finally say it right
1 / 6Upon arriving at the stunning Lake Taupō, we were instantly mesmerized by its breathtaking beauty. The lake seemed to stretch endlessly, with distant mountain ranges barely visible on the opposite shore. The water was exceptionally clear. I couldn’t wait to dive into that lake in the next few days. To our astonishment, Lake Taupō is the world's most active rhyolitic supervolcano and was responsible for the massive Ōruanui eruption 25,500 years ago—the largest known eruption in the past 70,000 years. In the Earth calendar, that’s not too long ago!
We stayed at a lovely Airbnb a block away from the lake, or I’d imagine, we would be sleeping at the rim of a potentially violent supervolcano! The idea is both thrilling and terrifying. Let’s pray the volcano is not going to devour us.
You can tell there is volcanic activity nearby when you come across natural thermal pools around the lake, where the water is hot enough to boil. Of course, we chose a location that is aesthetically maintained and regularly tested to ensure the water is warm but not hot enough to cook us. Soaking in a warm, mineral-rich pool was incredibly therapeutic and relaxing, and it’s sure to rejuvenate our skin, giving us an extra few years, I imagine.
Another interesting note: the thermal pool didn't have a strong odor at all! You might wonder why it’s not notorious for being smelly. According to my research, its geothermal system is primarily alkaline rather than acidic, resulting in minimal sulfur gas emissions. Amazing!
The nearby Huka Falls was a stunning sight, created by volcanic activity and the powerful erosion of the Waikato River. The water cascaded loudly over the falls, flowing gracefully amidst the strikingly blue scenery. We hiked along the trails by the falls, and the view was breathtaking from every angle.
Chapter 5.2
A Walk on Mount Eden
The Uber dropped us partway up — a short, easy climb with the whole city laid out ahead
1 / 7Fun fact from Wikipedia: Maungawhau, or Mount Eden, is Auckland's highest natural point at 196 meters and is an iconic dormant volcano. It last erupted approximately 15,000 to 28,000 years ago and features a perfectly symmetrical, 50-meter-deep crater known as Te Ipu-a-Mataoho.
On our first day in Auckland, shortly after enjoying a bowl of noodles and settling into our hotel, we took an Uber to Mount Eden, the iconic volcano park located just a 10- to 15-minute drive from the city center. The driver dropped us off partway up the hike, likely sensing that we were too tired to complete the entire walk. The trek to the top was short and quite relaxing. As soon as we reached the rim, we were greeted by the sight of the crater. From a food lover's perspective, it resembled a giant wok covered in grass. Walking along the rim, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the city and its harbors. It was February, and the summer breeze at the top of the volcano felt delightful. It's fascinating to see a downtown area and its suburbs nestled among both large and small volcanoes. While some might say these volcanoes are dormant, the locals, or Kiwis, have had to evolve and adapt to their surroundings. Sometimes in life, you have to take a chance and hope for the best.
After soaking in the stunning views of the skyline and the nearby islands, we felt completely energized by the thrill of being in a new country. Holy smokes! Every cell in my body was awakened. We took a leisurely stroll down Mount Eden and explored the surrounding suburbs, where I enjoyed my first ice cream treat. What a fantastic way to start our first day!
Chapter 5.3
The Baby: Rangitoto Island
Coffee on the morning ferry out of the Downtown Ferry Terminal — twenty-five minutes to a volcano
1 / 10Compared to Mount Eden or Lake Taupō, Rangitoto volcano is relatively young, having emerged from the sea only about 600 years ago. It stands alone, directly facing the Auckland city center, overlooking centuries of human civilization—the good, the bad, and the ugly. Given its youth, I, as an anxious traveler, wondered if it might still pose a threat, so I did some research. To my relief, scientists indicate that while the island is still geothermally active, there is no imminent danger of an eruption. Therefore, let’s set foot on the island and enjoy a wonderful hike!
We took a ferry from the Downtown Ferry Terminal. Be sure to book your tickets in advance, as the number of visitors allowed on the island each day is strictly regulated. Pack enough food and water, since there are no vendors on the island. The ferry ride was short and enjoyable, offering stunning views of the city and surrounding islands on a clear day.
Upon arriving at the island, we began our hike to the top. The hike was moderate, but it’s still important to wear comfortable hiking shoes. The trail was generally well paved with a few moderately challenging sections. Lava rocks were abundant, forming large piles in various areas or covering significant sections of the slope. Close your eyes and imagine the birth of a new island. Volcanic eruptions would create a spectacular sight, accompanied by fireworks, ash, and rivers of lava flowing everywhere. Our Earth always makes me feel humbled.
At the summit, we were once again amazed by the panoramic view of the Auckland skyline as well as the nearby gulfs and bays. It’s fascinating to see a major city from different volcanoes, which highlights the incredible geography of the area.
After a pleasant lunch break, we chose a longer trail back, avoiding other visitors. The island is filled with vibrant vegetation, completely oblivious to the fact that it sits atop a ticking time bomb. After returning to the city by ferry, we took a bus to Mission Bay, where we relaxed on the soft, sandy beach with calm waters, enjoying the stunning view of Rangitoto Island. We proudly exclaimed, "Hey! We hiked there in the morning!”
Mission Bay in the afternoon, with the whole morning's hike sitting right there on the horizon
1 / 4We ended the day with a specialty from New Zealand: Hokey Pokey ice cream and super-fresh fish and chips. This is what I call a perfect travel day!
- Book in advance.
- Pack enough food and water.
- Wear comfortable hiking shoes.
- Bring a garbage bag. Don’t leave anything behind besides your gentle footprints on the trail.